A belated introduction

My name is Sachi and I'm here to learn.

I'm a knitter and a spinner. I've played with dyeing and I've created simple knits. I have yet to design a garment of any significant size, mainly because I personally am of fairly significant size. As a larger woman, who has yet to learn much in the way of patience, creating a sweater that fits me and having it end in less-than-perfection is far too much to bear at the moment. Not only that, but the thought of having to rip something of that huge size is just so daunting that it makes me want to take a nap.

But I'm learning patience and the concept of math/gauge/ease/fit are starting to take a proper hold in my mind. My first sweater of my own design is getting closer every day. I look forward to absorbing information and inspiration from all you lovely folks here at the Create Along. While I may not have much to contribute to this group in the way of new and exciting design for quite some time, I thank you in advance for sharing your creativity with the world.

I've received my shipment of Denim and sat down with my stitch pattern books for hours... and hours... I've been sketching madly for several days and, after narrowing my project down to three sketches, I've decided on a tank with some dragon-scaley-type design. Oh boy. I'm in for a ride, I think.

My mind has only recently been able to absorb fully the concept of gauge swatch shrinking or blooming making my work-in-progress larger than my finished object will be. In fact, my mind has not fully wrapped around that concept, now that I think of it. I swatched, I washed, I dried. I did not, however, measure the unwashed swatch which will be yet another thing to add to my list of "lessons learned" as I work my way through this project. You see, had I measured my unwashed swatch, I would have an awful lot more confidence in my project, now only one pattern-repeat deep in progress.

While my finished project must fit a 44" in bust, my waist certainly does not require such a size. However, as I was scribbling down notes and calculating stitch counts, I understood that, unless I'm inserting a button band, I'll need to be able to pull the tank OVER a 44" bust. As I plan to knit this tank in two pieces, I figured I'd need at least a 20" - 22" piece; half the finished size. I calculated. I cast on. I knitted. I freaked out.

This WIP is at least 35" wide, relaxed. I need a new mantra to chant as I knit to help me fight the urge to rip; something to remind me to trust my swatch.

"Om... Understand the swatch... Om... become the swatch... Om... be the swatch... "

It's not working.

"Gauge" is not a four letter word

Whether your are designing your own knitwear, or knitting someone else's pattern, a gauge swatch can be invaluable. This is not to say that you cannot design and knit without swatching first. For as long as there has been knitting, there have been people who picked up yarn and needles and simply jumped forth, feet first, into their projects.
That said, there are some distinctly useful reasons to consider knitting, washing and blocking a swatch of any yarn you plan to knit with, and if you love knitting (and I think you do) you can make this a fun aspect of the project.

When I think of designing I think of it like building with Legos. Each block can be a different size, so that 10 –1 inch wide blocks stacked next to each other will be an entirely different length than 10 - half inch blocks in the same arrangement. If you are planning to make your Barbie a fort, replete with moat and dragon, you'll need to make sure you build it large enough for her and her cavalcade of cannons (to keep the riff-raff out, of course.)

These blocks have different gauges.

Saying that her walls need to be 20 blocks wide doesn't mean anything if you have 4 different sizes of blocks to choose from. Pick the blocks that are too small, and Barbie just isn't going to fit inside. Pick blocks that are too large and you might find it no longer fits on the dining room table (where we all play with our Legos and Barbies!) Gauge tells you how big your building blocks are and gives you the Rosetta Stone to knowing where to go next with a pattern, whether it's your own or someone else's.

Once you know you have X number of stitches and Y number of rows per inch, you can easily determine how to decrease evenly from your hips to your waist, then back out for your chest, even if your measurements are wildly different than the average. Without those numbers, you might find yourself decreasing too quickly or not quickly enough and that either means a trip to the frog pond (rip-it, rip-it, rip-it) or an ill fitting garment.

Furthermore, knitting a gauge swatch gives you a chance to get to know your yarn; how it commingles with your needle choice, and gives you a chance to try the stitch pattern and see if it suits your taste. I can't tell you how many times I've realized that my needles were poorly matched to my yarn, occasionally with disastrous results (think rough wooden needles snagging smooth microfiber.)

Best to leave those discoveries to the swatch stage before you've begun knitting rows of 200 stitches.

Finally, as designers, you are not limited to the gauge and needles specified on the ball band. Your yarn may knit up with too much drape, or not enough, when knit at the specified gauge, but go up or down a few needle sizes and the fabric may be just what you hoped. Use your gauge swatch as a chance to find that perfect match between the two.

I could stand up on this soapbox all day, extolling the virtues and joys of knitting gauge swatches, as these are just the a few highlights, but I don't want to scare you all off yet.

My next post will show my theory in action! Stay tuned for my adventures in swatching.

PS. Go team CALMER!