Yarn choices, gauge, and buttons... oh my!

You know you're excited about a project when you work on it despite the deadline that is Mother's Day looming and hand-knit socks expected on all fronts. Here are the final swatches: cartridge rib increased to stockinette stitch.

The top swatch is in the color "Hurricane," which is lovely, but doesn't show off the texture of the cartridge rib as well as the lighter "Marmalade," so I've decided to use something bright for my first go at this pattern: "Candy Girl" (the left-hand color in the photo). The other, light pink ball may be used to produce a second layer of fabric for the puffy bust portion (thank you, Hannah!). What do you guys think?

The gauge of the cartridge rib is 7 stitches/inch, and garter stitch is 6 stitches/inch using size 4 needles. On the top swatch, I increased from 29 to 64 stitches, moving from just over 4 inches to nearly 11 inches. Too much! For the bottom swatch, I increased from 25 to 38 stitches, moving from about 4 inches to just over 6 inches... more like it.

While selecting my yarn and discussing the design with Hannah at Windsor Button, I realized that the ribbed section of this top must be worked flat, both in order to produce cartridge rib without excess fiddling and to fit closely: the cartridge rib is not particularly stretchy on size 4 needles, and I want this top fitted. This flat knitting will necessitate a button band, which will actually give me the chance to include tiny, vintage mother-of-pearl buttons in the design!

I measured just under my bust: 29 inches. I will therefore cast on 228 stitches in order to produce a 30-inch tube plus 2 additional inches for the button band, which will be a doubled one-inch-wide band of currently undetermined stitch pattern (garter? Moss? Stockinette? Any suggestions?). At the bust, I will increase by 107 (228 minus the 14-stitch button band) stitches to 335 stitches and begin to work in the round. This may be too many stitches (over 50 inches!), so there will be a lifeline at the end of the cartridge rib, allowing me to rip and redo until I like the proportions.

Ready to go! Progress pictures of the actual project on the way!

Small Bust Godsend shell begins!

So, totally stoked by all the positive feedback I've gotten on my idea for this project, I've sketched it up and begun swatching. The sketch to the left gives some idea of what I'm going for... that's me in a pencil skirt and this new Small Bust Godsend. As you can see, the body looks rather boyish up to the bustline, where the soft and gauzy fabric, through a few rows of dramatic increases, puffs out. The sleeves will the raglan, since tiny-shouldered people look good in raglan sleeves. Construction will be bottom-up for ease of fitting, actually... in this case, the knitter will know the desired dimensions for the ribbing, but may want to play around with how much to increase for the bust. Too much would be cartoonish... too little would produce just another fitted shell.

My first complete swatch is cartridge rib (have always wanted to use it, just because of the name! Hey, here's my chance!), worked on #4 addi turbos across 45 stitches. The color is "marmalade," of which I had some leftovers from a shawl made for my mom. The color for the garment is still undecided, and suggestions other than black (classic, yes, but working it on size 4s... ugh, the eye strain!) are welcome. After playing around with differently-size needles, I think the size 4s give the fabric the right mix of stretch and translucency; I'm not going for a "mesh top" look, but the nature of the kidsilk haze means that the top will necessitate a camisole underneath for work and a thorough bra or bralette for going out. Or not, you know, maybe just a jacket or cardigan for the more risque.

Or wear it with nothing underneath if you make it in a dark color and be That Person at your next party. You know the person I'm talking about.

Next up will be a few stockinette swatches and experimentation with increasing techniques. Stay tuned!